I assume you are new stereo photographer, so welcome to stereophotography hobby, pchow!
Doing cha-cha (one camera takes the two photos in turn) is a good start, but beware with the subjects: you will have poor results if something moves too fast in your image. Rocks, buildings, statues generally do not move much (but be conscious of lighting); trees, landscapes, clouds might change too quickly or be fine, mostly depending of wind; people, animals, water often move too quick to have good 3d with cha-cha. You may have noticed already, it is quite obvious.
You may have also noticed that phereo is a sharing service and do not modify your photos (except for some technical aspects such as definition, quality of compression, way of displaying them) so that you have to do the job to prepare stereo yourself before sharing.
The minimal job is aligning, and this is especially true for cha-cha since there is no prior mechanical alignment.
On this photograph for example, you might have to rotate and displace x/y (and in some [rare?] cases you might have to zoom one image) so that maximum points align horizontally. Some software can help you, I let you search for those (I use hugin but while powerful, it is not documented for that usage and hard to use; a lot of people use StereoPhoto Maker; there are other software too). Having tried on your (this) photo, the perception of depth is better, quicker and more comfortable.
Second useful job is to place the stereo window. I just give you the keyword for your searches. This step let you chose where you place the "screen" in your photo (determine what is behind and what is in front). When it is well placed, it helps to have a more pleasant viewing experience. There might be complex interesting work on stereo windows, but basic rectangle placement is a simple and fast way to improve shots at first.
Third knowledge I would add is stereo base, or interocular distance, that is the distance between the two shot lenses. When you can change it (as with cha-cha), learn/experiment: main change is the depth accentuation/compression that can benefit to some subjects. Around 6-7cm is OK for lots of subjects tough.
These are some little things to start with. First of all, you should definitely work on alignment.
Also, do not hesitate to join a community (online or IRL) where you can discuss with more experienced people more easily than though comments on photos.
Doing cha-cha (one camera takes the two photos in turn) is a good start, but beware with the subjects: you will have poor results if something moves too fast in your image. Rocks, buildings, statues generally do not move much (but be conscious of lighting); trees, landscapes, clouds might change too quickly or be fine, mostly depending of wind; people, animals, water often move too quick to have good 3d with cha-cha. You may have noticed already, it is quite obvious.
You may have also noticed that phereo is a sharing service and do not modify your photos (except for some technical aspects such as definition, quality of compression, way of displaying them) so that you have to do the job to prepare stereo yourself before sharing.
The minimal job is aligning, and this is especially true for cha-cha since there is no prior mechanical alignment.
On this photograph for example, you might have to rotate and displace x/y (and in some [rare?] cases you might have to zoom one image) so that maximum points align horizontally. Some software can help you, I let you search for those (I use hugin but while powerful, it is not documented for that usage and hard to use; a lot of people use StereoPhoto Maker; there are other software too). Having tried on your (this) photo, the perception of depth is better, quicker and more comfortable.
Second useful job is to place the stereo window. I just give you the keyword for your searches. This step let you chose where you place the "screen" in your photo (determine what is behind and what is in front). When it is well placed, it helps to have a more pleasant viewing experience. There might be complex interesting work on stereo windows, but basic rectangle placement is a simple and fast way to improve shots at first.
Third knowledge I would add is stereo base, or interocular distance, that is the distance between the two shot lenses. When you can change it (as with cha-cha), learn/experiment: main change is the depth accentuation/compression that can benefit to some subjects. Around 6-7cm is OK for lots of subjects tough.
These are some little things to start with. First of all, you should definitely work on alignment.
Also, do not hesitate to join a community (online or IRL) where you can discuss with more experienced people more easily than though comments on photos.