Tal como se expuso aquí, en el foro de Phereo, con el cable de Sony (VMC-MM2) la cámara principal es la conectada a la clavija I, y la esclava es la conectada a la clavija L, (con ángulo recto):
Yo me he acostumbrado a esa disposición pues por un lado me deja la mano derecha para los cambios rápidos de configuración en ambas cámaras y por otro lado, por disparar la cámara izquierda por delante y abajo, con el dorso de la mano hacia el sujeto…me resulta muy útil para fotografía de calle por ser procedimiento inesperado e insospechado :-)
Invertir la disposición de las clavijas aumenta la estéreo base en 15 mm (implica que la distancia al objeto más cercano se incrementa en medio metro), pero hay varias alternativas:
a-Usar los cables DSLRKIT (macho y hembra) pues tienen clavijas en I más cortas que la clavija I de Sony. El inconveniente es que ambos cables, emparejados, son mucho más largos que el VMC-MM2 de Sony.
b-Usar el cable hembra de DSLRKIT junto con otro macho, corto y con clavija en ángulo recto que venden en Ebay. El inconveniente es que el acople es más inestable que el de los dos cables anteriores y evidentemente su desconexión fortuita implica pérdida (a veces irreparable) de una o varias fotografías.
c) Hacerte tu propio cable de conexión (fue el primer método que usé), uniendo (enredando pues no hace falta soldar y usando después cinta aislante negra para solidarizar) los 3 cables internos del interior de 2 cables para puerto MultiTerminal de Sony.
Por esos 4 caminos diferente es posible disponer de varias docenas de cámaras Sony, muy diversas en precio (desde 350 la A5100 a 3500 la A9), pero todas tecnológicamente muy avanzadas. Tanto lo son que sin duda son los mejores equipos estéreos que se pueden conformar hoy día.
De todos ellos, parece claro que el de mejor relación calidad-precio es el formado por 2 Sony A6000: con coste de cámara compacta y con calidad profesional o muy cerca :)
Hola José,
ya he adquirido la segunda a6000 y el cable de sincronización VMC-MM2. Por ahora utilizo los objetivos que vienen con el kit básico que es un 16-50 de sony. Lo he montado en paralelo. Hoy quiero probar "el invento" saliendo a tomar algunas fotografías pero el mayor inconveniente que le veo por ahora es que para tomar las fotos he de realizar el disparo con la cámara izquierda con lo que la postura es bastante incómoda, a no ser que uses un trípode. ¿Has encontrado solución a este problema? He estado pensando en el grip VCT-SGR1 con algún tipo de hub micro-sb pero no lo tengo claro.
Marton, I'm using the AF-A mode. I believe that is the default since I can't recall ever changing it. Shooting flying birds I had good sync with continuous shots but did not really inspect them to see if the focus tracked the birds. With my wake board series, shooting at a fixed location with a moving subject I had good sync and focus (though the subject was far enough away small changes in focus would have been hard to detect).
Randy: do you use AF-S or AF-C mode? Today i tested with the 90 degree cables too, and the sync is good only in 70-80% of the time. Maybe AF-S is safer than AF-C, which try to follow the subject?
Marton, I use a cheap set of spiral cables that I hacked to join together with 3.5 mm stereo (audio) connectors. I have had very good sync results with this cables set. My only suggestion would be to try and switch which camera you use as the master to trigger both shutters.
I believe that all attempts to always achieve a stereobase similar to the human eye's telorism are based, above all, on traditional and non-technical motives because a difference of 10 mm in the stereobase implies to decrease only 300 mm (10 x 30) the distance to the closest object: That is only one third of a meter.
I completely agree, Randy, with your previous comments. I also prefer to mount the cameras side-by-side, because in this way it is easier to quickly modify the settings in both cameras, verify that the configuration remains identical in both, and it is very easy to vary the stereobase quickly when the nearest object modifies emprevisibly its distance to the cameras. On the other hand, I think that a very unorthodox stereo base (even 14 cm, Sony A6000) can be compensated modifying, decreasing, the focal length and alternatively (when using fixed focal length lens) it is very easy to increase the distance to the nearest object ... by walking only three steps backwards.
When last spring Randy informed about the good synchronization of his A5100 cameras, we tested in a store other many models of recent Sony cameras and many models synchronized well (FullFrame and APS-C) but another dozen (compact cams, also having multi-terminal port) did not synchronize at all: ...............
http://forum.phereo.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=296&start=10
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According to some rumors, in the past some people failed trying to synchronize the already discontinued Samsung NX1000 and Sony A5000.cams, so it is very important, to get a perfect synchronization, millisecond or less (according to Barry Aldous sync test), follow the ritual: shoot (full press) only after confirmation of focus (half press) : visual green, or auditive (sound) signals.
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On the other hand I have observed that there are never problems of synchronization using the Sony cable (VMC-MM2) or the two plugs (female and male) of the same manufacturer (DSLRKIT), but the connection is less stable using other male plug, shorter, not spiral and right angled of another brand). I don’t use more this plug (probably it is too thin for a stable contact with the female plug):
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I completely agree, Randy. I also prefer to mount the cameras side-by-side, because in this way it is easier to quickly modify the settings in both cameras, verify that the configuration remains identical in both, and it is very easy to vary the stereobase quickly when the nearest object modifies emprevisibly its distance to the cameras. On the other hand, I think the unorthodox stereo base (14 cm) can be compensated modifying the focal length and alternatively (when using fixed focal length lens) it is , usually, very easy to increase the distance to the nearest object ... by walking only three steps backwards. ....................................................................................................... ...........................................................................................
Example: If the stereobase is 70 mm (bottom-to-bottom rig) and therefore the closest object should be at 2100 mm (70 x 30), that is at 2.1 meters , and for 140 mm of stereo base (side-by-side rig) the closest object must be at 4200 mm (140 x 30), that is 4.2 meters (only 2 meters more).... For me it is very difficult to imagine situations where the distance to the nearest object can not be increased by backing three steps backwards (in very small rooms? on the top of a mountain?)
Marton how are you triggering the camera shutters? Are you using the shutter of one camera to trigger both, or using a remote? Just throwing out some ideas since my a5100 pair only miss-syncs if the focus isn't locked first.
Someone I don't remember who gave me a check for syncing my Canon D 1100 in order to synchronize the internal clock I put it in video mode and then press the shutter to take a picture I'm doing so somehow resets the clocks together together maybe you can try it and see if that works for the Sony too
yeah, aps-c sensor, 24mpix with fast lens is amazing! unfortunately my dual a5100 rig is in sync only in 60-70% of the time. Why?? Cams was buyed at the same time, same firmware. I use exactly the same settings, wait for focus on both, etc. But often sync is out. Cables are from ebay 2.5mm male and female, but i doubt this could be the problem. Any other tips?
Of course cropping makes your effective focal length longer. Still, I find I am often using a more square aspect ratio anyhow. The big advantage of these cameras to me is image quality. I'm still thinking about it.
I use a piece of threaded rod ( a bolt with the head cut off ) for this type of mount with my a5100 pair. I don't often use it this way since I generally like a wider base line, but I used it for my Comic Con series>
Yes, a photographer very classic and vintage, in Alicante, every weekend taking pictures of tourists who walk near the sea, on the promenade lined with the port . Always the weather is good for taking photos.. He always sees with sympathy all our 3D equipments.
No ha sido fácil encontrar tu mensaje entre tanto spam que me llega a esa dirección. Tu mensaje es el nº 174 de 6721 pendientes de leer o de borrar :)
Te acabo de mandar ambas fotos desde otra dirección email que es mucho más privada y más controlable :)
A ver si nos vemos en una quedada. Como en España por ahora ya no las hay, igual es más fácil en Southampton, con la Stereoscopic Society, el próximo mes de Mayo. Magnifica ciudad y todos los socios, colegas en el 3D, gente muy amable y muy noble. Seguro que pueden ser unos días estupendos.