With an L bracket setup you can make an adjustable baseline rig. But since I only use portrait mode for close range shots, this works fine. It got a good workout at the Bangkok Comic Con last weekend taking pictures of cosplay costumes. For almost all other situations I prefer the flexibility of a landscape rig with adjustable baseline.
I recently tested my a5100s in continuous shooting mode and seemed to get good sync across the sequence: http://www.3dphoto.net/forum/index.php/topic,12033.0.html
Using stock male/female cables is the easiest way to go if you can find them. I also noticed a huge price difference depending on the source. I'll be making some short multiport to stereo cables as the stock curly cables are too long for most rigs. I can then add stereo extension cables for when I want a really wide baseline.
> I couldn't find the female version cable so I just bought two male cables
I looked for a female Sony multi-terminal cable (Female-S2, replacement for the RM-SPR1) and I only found it in China, but avaiable through Amazon Spain:
This weekend these two cables (male and female) arrived. I do not know if the synchronization works well at all the Sony cameras with multi-terminal port . I only can confirm that with 3 Alpha models : A5100, A6000 and also A7S (until ISO 400.000!).
In any case, each 3D photo lover can make the appropriate checks, only under their own risk.
A new era in 3D photography, at least for me (excited and happy), now begins: The Sony Multi-terminal Era.
Makes sense. Thanks for testing that out. By the way. I took your insights and advice on creating the sync cable. I spiced 2 remote cable into 1, and plugged them into 1 receiver/trigger. Haven't done extensive testing but it appears to sync the two cameras way way better! I so glad you figured this out. I will share my test pictures when I get a good one worthy of showing.
Dan, I see the distortion you mentioned in your sample image. I imported it into SPM and ran auto-alignment on it. It vastly reduced the jello effect when viewed as a wiggle gram. Modern digital cameras have the processing capability to "correct" for lens distortion. This allows the manufacturer to reduce the size, weight and cost of lenses by letting the camera compensate. I believe the RAW format would give you an image pre-corrected, but you would then have to use a program like Adobe RAW to apply your own geometric correction in post processing. The alternative you are using is to mount a lens designed for film that introduces a little geometric distortion as possible to begin with.
A good example is in my Phereo picture album titled "Northwoods Lake, WI"
http://phereo.com/image/555a81a9e7e5646a0700012e
And also "The Rudolph Grotto Gardens #002"
When you turn on wiggle mode, notice how the image does just shift left-right but it also bends forward and backward. Some pics it not as bad. And maybe Stereo Photo Maker could fix it by uncorrecting the "correction"
Dan, can you point to any examples where the geometric distortion causes problems with the 3D alignment? I may have just overlooked it as the Sony a5100s are a big step up from my old Canon A810s. It's unlikely I'll replace the stock lenses due to economics but I'm interested in learning about the issue.
Randy let me share this with you. The automatic lens on these Sony 5000's will try to correct for lens distortion automatically. It makes the two stereo shots not line up well. Most won't notice, but it bothered me. I bought pentax MF adaptors and 2 28mm PK vintage lenses. With man. lenses, Sony geometric correction is disabled, and stereo shots align much better.
I'm using two wireless trigger with one remote that trips both with same wireless frequency. But they triggers do connect to the multiports. I will check out your pix. Your solution would be welcome news if it works for me.
Are you using two wired remotes, or one remote with a Y connector? I've gotten very good sync results using a multi-port to multi-port cable and just using the shutter button on one camera to operate them both. You HAVE to wait for both cameras to focus (half press) before tripping the shutter (full press). View my series of shots from the Thai Wake Park to judge for yourself.
It's a short threaded rod holding them together. Screw them together 90% then insert the wooden wedge/alignment fixture and tighten the last 1/4 turn to lock them in place and line them up.
I've had a pair of a5000's for a few years now. Can not get them to perfectly sync using a double pair of remote triggers. Does your setup get them properly synced? IE: able to freeze fluttering flags and flowing water?